Ageing or Aesthetic: The White Hair Dilemma?

You’re walking through school when you spot it - someone your age with a few unmistakable, glistening strands of white hair. Hold up, aren’t they a little too young to be having white hair? We’ve all heard the saying “going gray with age”, but what if your hair starts staging a premature rebellion against you long before your retirement party? Most of the time, we associate gray or white hair with our old grandparents and the fearful thought of “ageing”. After all, who likes growing closer to death, right? However, lately, it seems that these silvery streaks are showing up faster than expected. So what is really up with these “strands of wisdom”? Are we really growing old faster, or is there something more than what meets the eye?

The Biology Behind White Hair

Before we carry on learning more about why these “Mother nature uninvited highlights” pop up out of the blue, we first need to understand what exactly is white hair.

Our hair colour owes its aesthetic vibrance to melanin, a natural pigment synthesised by specialised cells known as melanocytes, which are found at the base of each hair follicle. These cells product mainly 2 types of melanin:

• Eumelanin: Responsible for causing black or brown hair.

• Pheomelanin: Responsible for causing red and yellow hair.

Your distinct hair colour is the result of the precise combination and concentration of these pigments. However as we age, the activity of melanocytes declines. The melanocyte stem cells in the hair follicle which normally replenish the pigment-producing melanocytes begin to die off or become less efficient, resulting in reduced melanin production over time. As a result, the new hairs that grow may contain less melanin pigment, or even none at all. These ‘pigmentless’ hairs will reflect light differently from normal hair, giving them their common gray, silver or white appearance.

Interestingly, this “whitening” process does not happen all at once. Early on, you might notice a few lonely strands of white hair interspersed among your natural coloured hair. Evidently, graying often begins in patches, which is why some people may have areas with streaks of silver while the rest are still richly coloured with melanin.

Why Do Some People Go Gray Early?

Graying hair is a natural part of ageing, but when it appears early - before the age of 20 in whites, 25 in Asians, or 30 in Africans, it is generally considered premature graying, and there are multiple factors that cause it:

1. Genetics

Genetics is the most dominant factor when it comes to when your hair starts to turn gray. If your parents or grandparents started graying at an early age, chances are you might follow in their footsteps - whether you like it or not. This inherited trait affects when your melanocyte stem cells start to decline, which in turn reduces melanin production and leads to graying. In fact, studies have shown that the age at which graying begins can often be predicted by family history. So if you’re ever wondering why a white storm has struck your hair, maybe check in with your parents, they might know a thing or two.

Ethnicity also plays a role in how fast you start graying. On average, Caucasians tend to gray earlier, often starting in their mid-30s, while Asians typically begin in their late 30s, and Africans in their mid-40s. So, if you’re seeing white hairs earlier than your peers, your DNA might be the main culprit! No stress though (although stress doesn’t help either, but we’ll get to that later!).

2. Oxidative Stress

Every cell in your body, including your melanocytes that are responsible for your hair pigment, are constantly under “attack” by oxidative stress. This biological wear and tear is caused by an imbalance between free radicals (unstable molecules produced during normal metabolic processes and environmental exposures) and antioxidants (molecules that neutralise them). When free radicals outnumber antioxidants, they can damage essential cellular components such as DNA, proteins, and lipids. For melanocytes, this damage affects the very machinery needed to produce melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color. One major consequence of oxidative stress is the premature depletion of melanocytes, effectively reducing the number of pigment-producing cells available in hair follicles.

A key player in defending against this process is catalase, an enzyme that breaks down hydrogen peroxide, a common metabolic byproduct that acts like a natural bleach. Under normal conditions, catalase neutralises hydrogen peroxide before it causes harm. However, as we age, catalase levels gradually decline. This allows hydrogen peroxide to build up in the hair follicle, where it disrupts melanin production and bleaches the hair from the inside out, contributing to the whitening of our hair.

3. Nutritional Deficiencies

Certain nutrients play a crucial role in maintaining healthy melanin production, which is essential for vibrant, pigmented hair. These nutrients not only support the melanocytes responsible for producing pigment but also contribute to overall cellular health and function:

• Vitamin B12: This vitamin is essential for the formation of red blood cells and the synthesis of DNA, both of which are vital for healthy cellular function. A deficiency in vitamin B12 can interfere with DNA replication in melanocytes, impairing their ability to produce melanin. Over time, this can lead to a noticeable loss of hair color, contributing to premature graying.

• Iron: Iron is crucial for many enzymatic processes throughout the body, including those involved in melanin production. It helps in the proper function of enzymes that catalyse the reactions necessary for pigment synthesis. A lack of iron, often resulting from anemia or poor diet, can slow down melanin production and result in hair losing its colour.

• Folic Acid: Folic acid (or vitamin B9) plays an important role in the growth and renewal of cells, including melanocytes. This nutrient is essential for proper cell division and the repair of DNA, which are key processes for maintaining healthy pigmentation. A deficiency in folic acid can impair cell turnover and contribute to earlier graying.

• Copper: This trace mineral is involved in the enzymatic production of melanin. Specifically, copper is a key component of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for the initial steps in melanin synthesis. Without adequate copper levels, melanin production can be disrupted, leading to lighter or gray hair.

Deficiencies in any of these nutrients can have a cascading effect on the body’s ability to produce melanin efficiently, accelerating the graying process.

4. Autoimmune and Medical Conditions

Furthermore, autoimmune diseases and other medical conditions can result in the increasing streaks of white hair we notice on our head:

• Vitiligo: Causes patchy loss of pigment in skin and hair due to immune attacks on melanocytes.

• Thyroid Disorders: Hypothyroidism or hyperthyroidism can interfere with melanocyte function.

• Alopecia Areata: Sometimes causes white regrowth in areas where hair was lost.

5. Lifestyle and Environmental Factors

Lastly, several lifestyle choices and environmental factors can also result in the gradual acceleration of our graying:

• Smoking: Smoking is strongly linked to premature graying, primarily due to its ability to increase oxidative stress and promote vascular constriction. These factors damage the hair follicles by limiting blood flow and oxygen, which impairs melanocyte function and reduces melanin production. Over time, this accelerates the graying process and can contribute to overall hair and skin aging.

• Stress: Chronic stress can disrupt hormonal balance, particularly increasing the levels of cortisol, which may in turn affect the function of melanocytes. In fact, a 2020 study from Columbia University found that stress-induced graying might be reversible in some cases, suggesting that with stress management and relaxation, hair color could potentially return to its natural shade. However, the extent of reversibility is still under investigation, and stress remains a significant factor in premature graying.

• Pollution and UV Exposure: Both air pollution and excessive UV exposure contribute to oxidative damage in skin and hair follicles. Pollution introduces harmful chemicals that accelerate the breakdown of cells, while UV radiation damages the skin’s protective layers and weakens hair follicles. Both environmental factors can accelerate the depletion of melanocytes, leading to the early onset of gray or white hair.

Is White Hair Bad?

Biologically, white or gray hair is harmless - it simply reflects a change in pigmentation, not the health of the hair strand itself. However, psychological and cultural perceptions of gray hair vary across societies. In some cultures and societies, gray hair may be a sign of wisdom and experience, while in others, it can also be dreaded as a sign of ageing and loss of vitality, leading some people to dye their hair to retain a more youthful appearance.

Notably in recent years, white and gray hair have become a fashion statement embraced by both ageing individuals and young people alike. Some see it as a symbol of strength while others feel that it matches with their vibe and style a lot more than their conventional hair colour. Movements celebrating “going gray naturally” have also gained popularity, promoting authenticity and challenging traditional beauty norms.

The Bottom Line

White hair is more than just an indicator of age - it is a complicated combination of biology, lifestyle, genetics, and health. While the science behind it is still up for debates, one thing is certain: graying is a perfectly normal, natural, and increasingly accepted aspect of life.

Every strand, whether you have a silver streak in your twenties or a full head of white in your sixties, tells a story about your age, health, or stress, or simply who you are. So next time when you see someone with white hair, don’t immediately assume that they are older. They could have survived one too many group projects, crashed out over PW, or recently sat through a particularly brutal econs test  :)

References:

1. Fuchs, J. (2020). Stress and premature graying: Insights from a 2020 study. Columbia University Medical Journal, 15(2), 122-126. (https://www.cuimc.columbia.edu/news/its-true-stress-does-turn-hair-gray-and-its-reversible)

2. Yaar, M., & Gilchrest, B. A. (2007). Aging of skin and hair. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 127(3), 935-944. https://doi.org/10.1038/sj.jid.5700676

3. "How Smoking Affects Your Hair." Healthline. Retrieved from https://www.healthline.com/health/smoking/does-smoking-cause-hair-loss

4. "What Causes Gray Hair?" WebMD. Retrieved from https://www.webmd.com/beauty/features/abcs-premature-graying

5. Burdock, G. A., & Carabin, I. G. (2010). Pollution, oxidative stress, and their effects on skin and hair follicles. Toxicology Research and Applications, 23(1), 1-8. (https://www.researchgate.net/publication/354078730_Oxidative_Stress_and_its_Impact_on_Skin_Scalp_and_Hair)